Japanese cuisine

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I am a great fan of Japanese cuisine -- actually a great fan of everything cuisine, simply -- and seeing this description of Japanese Suppon Snapping Turtle from Joi Ito makes me wonder why all Japanese restaurants I know of in Paris are limited to the sushi/sashimi/maki/teriyaki quartet ? Love that too, but compared to the extent of Japanese food art, isn't that their equivalent of fast food? It would be like saying that american food is nothing more than what you get at McDonalds!

Does anyone know of a Japanese restaurant in Paris that would go beyond sushis etc.? Joi, I am sure you know one, please ;-)